Tasting in Santa Ynez Valley: Part One: Rusack

I had another revelation about what keeps me spending my spare time talking to winemakers and tasting: winemakers are part of the rarified few that love what they do for work. --They're a happy and proud lot and John Falcone is no exception. Though still a young man, he's been working in wineries for 31 years. Through tutelage by Italian relatives and the likes of winemaker-chemistry guru Dick Peterson (you may know him as the father of Heidi Barrett), John Falcone rose through the ranks of the Monterey Vineyards and Atlas Peak to land his job at Rusack.

Owners Geoff and Alison Rusack got a package deal: John's wife, Helen, once assistant winemaker at Chimney Rock, is his winemaking partner here. Geoff and Alison began this boutique winery doing everything themselves but once the Rusack brand was established, it was necessary to go pro . So, in 2001 the reins were handed to John and Helen with a pretty simple mantra: do what it takes to make great wine.  The Rusack's hands off approach has paid off and their trust in their winemakers has yielded perfectly balanced wines with a clear expression of the soil from which the grapes were sown. The generous replanting effort with painstaking trellising that took place when Falconer took the helm has gained universal praise for its results.

I tasted through the Pinots, both the 2005s and the newly bottled 2006s, as well as two Santa Barbara County Chardonnays and Syrahs.

All of the Rusack wines are exceptionally well-balanced, very carefully made wines. If you're in the mood for a Pinot with explosive scents of fresh fruit and you're lucky enough to come across their wines (total output is currently only 7000 total cases), any choice would be trustworthy, especially in the coming months with the release of the 2006s. According to the website, the 2005 Pinots are all sold out but I'm sure they're still in stores and on better restaurant wine lists.

Tasting Notes:

2005  Rusack Chardonnay Santa Barbara County
Elegant and simple with ample body. There are enough fresh lemony acids to cut the richness from 50% malo fermentation and 40% new oak.

2005 Rusack  Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Reserve
More new oak and more full-fermented fruit, this reserve bottling is a bit rounder, but still has a cirtrus-y freshness to it, completely balanced. I would like to see this is a few years to see if the subtle aromatics change on this one.

2005 Rusack  Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley
Huge complex of red fruit scents explode in the glass, even a bit of what I thought was tangerine. Mostly from the Soloman Hills vineyard. Recommended.

2006 Rusack  Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley
Bright fruits abound with lingering dried spice and citrus peel. Has a pleasant mint scent as well. This has both Soloman Hills and Garys Ranch fruit. Highly recommended.

2005 Rusack  Pinot Noir Santa Rita HIlls Rancho Santa Rosa
A little smoke on the nose with a bit more dark herbal characteristic than the Santa Maria Valley offering. This has a very long finish and a lot of round young cherries on the tongue. I took the rest of this bottle home! Highly recommended - only 50 cases produced.

2006 Rusack  Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Reserve
Mostly from the Fiddlestix vineyard, this is quite different from the fruit grown at Foley's Rancho Santa Rita property. At only 10 days in the bottle, this was very supple and round. A lovely wine. Highly recommended and ready to drink upon release with a beautiful meal.

2005 Rusack  Syrah Santa Barbara
This is a big and juicy beast! The fruit was given enough hang time to give it an extra 1% brix over the Pinots. All Ballard Canyon fruit, from estate grapes and local sources. Great color and extraction.

2005 Rusack Syrah Santa Barbara  County
Shows the potential of Ballard Canyon fruit. A touch of estate Petite Syrah was also added for a little grip and a bit more color. This is a meaty blockbuster with a touch of herbs on the nose.