Fort Ross Vineyards: Same grapes, different treatment

Isn't it interesting to taste what different producers do with the same plot of grapes? I have long been fascinated by this. I love to compare what Ridge did to Alegria zinfandel grapes and taste what Acorn did with their home-turf grapes. Or tasting some of the different treatments of grapes known to Turley drinkers, like those from Chase Family (Hayne) or Tofanelli (Tofanelli.)

Most of my readers know that I have been buying futures from Fred Scherrer for along time now, and I have become very fond of his treatment of the Fort Ross pinot fruit. For those who don't live in the Bay Area, Fort Ross was a Russian settlement south of Mendocino, around the war of 1812. The cool coastal climate is very friendly to Burgundian varietals, like Pinot and Chardonnay. It's far enough south of Mendocino though, that it has, to my tastes, riper fruit than the general Mendocino fruit, like what you may find from Pacific Star, which also has a close proximity to the ocean.

Fred has been making some great Pinot from the Fort Ross Vineyards for several years, and tonight tried their own label's reserve Pinot from the same grapes that Fred uses. But wait, this time, not only are they the same grapes, but they were produced in Fred's facility, and Fred was one of the consulting winemakers. Hmmmm. What could be different?

Here are my notes:

My notes:
Color and body is that of a young Burgundy, red-brown along the edges, and viscous but light.
Nose is extremely appealing, with notes of clove, white pepper, and cherry.
Flavor is huge. Slightly hot when I first opened it. As expected, it toned down a bit as the evening went on. Finish goes on and on. Less vanilla than Fred's Fort Ross, and initially, I agree with Fred that it had some harder edge to it. Eventually, it opened up and revealed the same heady fruit as Fred's version. My initial impression, and I'm working from memory, is that the Scherrer version was ready earlier in life, and this one may be better if put down for another year or two.

Comments

[The Corkdork]

Hi Dr. Debs,
I believe Fred's last job as winemaker with Fort Ross was the 2003 vintage. I've had the Pinotage at tastings and still don't have a great sense of it, so I'll give it another try. Others have recommended it as well.
Corkdork

[Dr. Debs]

I wish I'd checked your archives before my Winery Watch on Fort Ross. I didn't know that Fred made wine with their grapes. I agree with you that the Fort Ross wines are fairly Burgundian in style, and that they do show great aging potential. If you've not tried the Fort Ross Pinotage, try to get some. It's really good!