Once again, ZAP, the 18th annual mega-tasting of Zinfandel hosted by the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers, was teeming with activity and people, despite the economic woes and this year's slightly higher ticket price. I was in the press tasting at 10 a.m. sharp, sipping and spitting my favorite breakfast beverage, Zinfandel. What I usually do for big tastings like this, is figure out ahead of time which are essential tables to hit from past experience (this was my 12th ZAP) then ask around for other tasters and winemaker's favorites.
Then, I always make a point to taste some random wines before retreating up to the press area once they open the doors to the general public. In the press area they put a very generous selection of Zin, carefully separated by region, which for me is key. There are so many Zins there, that I try to hit as many of the top wines from my favorite regions, Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley, and Napa. There are usually some surprises from Amador, Lodi, Paso Robles, and this year especially, Alexander Valley.
Here are the stand-outs. Any should be considered valuable to look out for in your local wine shop. I tend to look for Zinfandels with lots of varital character (spice, black fruit) combined with excellent winemaking practices. Often I find that the things I like are very small in production and may be tough to find in your area but try your favorite online resellers if you strike out.
Tasting Notes:
Acorn Winery/ Alegria Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
2005 Heritage Vines, Alegria Vineyards - if I had a "hall of fame" for zinfandel, this would be at the top of the heap. Always excellent, clean and unctuous, gushing with Russian River fruit. Betsy and Bill have a magical plot of land that is field blend-planted and the outcome is consistently awesome. The 2006 was good too, but full of youthful tannins and tense energy right now. If you can find the 2005s or anything older...grab 'em.
Adobe Road Wines, Sonoma
2005 Sonoma County - thick with bright fruit and a deep center. Focused and excellent. For the big-Zin lover.
August Briggs Wines, Napa
2006 Old Vine, Napa Valley - Deep and dark. A good clean example of the 2006 style, ripe and forward tannins.
Bella Vineyards & Wine Caves, Sonoma
2006 Big River Ranch, Alexander Valley - Slightly greener than last year's offering, but worth seeking out anyway. The touch of Petite Syrah in it gives it color and grip. Good for putting down for a couple years for sure.
2006 Dry Creek Valley - More raspberry lift to this one due to some Syrah added instead of Petite Syrah and it really works. Just delicious and everything I expect from Bella, who always rises to the top of my list these days.
Benessere, Napa
2006 Black Glass, Estate, Napa Valley - Lots of spice- even a hit of Cardomom, I swear. Very good.
2007 Black Glass, Estate, Napa Valley - Fresh and lovely. Shines bright among the 2007s. Yum.
Bradford Mountain Winery, Sonoma
2005 Grist - Still fresh, big, and lovely. Was good last year, even better now.
Brown Estate Vineyards, Napa Valley
2007 Napa Valley - Glad to report they are back on track and the 2007 has a firm, dark mid-palate and lots of sauvage flavors. Has some animal on the nose that I'm sure will dissipate with time. Delicious.
Chase Family Cellars - Napa Valley
2005 Hayne Vineyard - Very dense and multi-layered. Very generous and in a heavier style than the famous Turley Haynes.
2005 Hayne Vineyard Reserve - This is the same price as the Turley Hayne, and it's a more syrupy extraction. Rich and delicious. This reminds me of the late-pick Zins from Sky back in the early 90s but with lower alcohol. Delicious and perhaps best on its own or with a steak au poivre.
Chateau Montelena Winery - Calistoga, Napa
2005 Estate, Napa Valley - Beautiful Napa Zin, round and balanced. Ready to drink now.
Dashe Cellars, Sonoma
2006 Louvau Vineyard, Old Vines, Dry Creek Valley - very spicy, clean and lean. Different than a lot of the more extracted 2006s.
2006 Todd Brothers Ranch, Old Vines, Alexander Valley - exceptional with a lovely mid palate and clean finish that lasts.
2006 Forence - From a vineyard near Preston - great perfume on this, rich and ripe
D-Cubed Cellars - Napa
2006 St. Helena Korte Ranch, Napa - balanced and polished
2006 Napa Valley - Blend of Korte, Howell Mt., Pope...very big and chewy. Delicious.
Downing Family Vineyard, Napa
2006 H&H Fly-by-Night, Oakville - has a distinctive dustiness from Oakville. Another explosive Zin.
Folie a Deux Winery, Napa
2006 Folie a Deux, Amador County - Surprisingly clean, simple, and not-over-ripe for Amador.
Frank Family Vineyards, Calistoga, Napa Valley
2006 Napa Valley - This was a great visit. They were using an Aerator made of glass to give the aromas a boost which really helped. Clean 2006 with no herbal overtones. Big hit of cloves. Has 6% Petite Syrah and 3% Syrah to pump up color and aroma.
Girard Winery, Napa
2006 Old Vine Napa Valley - Nice! Lots of black fruit.
Hartford Family Winery, Sonoma
2006 Russian River Valley - Huge aromatics of boysenberry pie. Exceptional.
2006 Highwire Vineyard - Earthier and delicious
J. Rickards Winery & Vineyards, Sonoma
2005 Voigt Family Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley- Huge, with beautiful balance of acid and fruit. An amazing find, thanks to Alder.
John Tyler, Sonoma
2004 Bacigalupi Vinayard, Russian River Valley - Very complex with great spice and dark black fruit
2005 Bacigalupi Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Very tasty blend of Zin, Petite, Carignane, Mataro, Alicante, and Muscat. Lots of stuff going on with the nose. Interesting and worth seeking out.
Maple Vineyards, Sonoma
2006 Dry Creek Valley - I gave this super high marks. Ripe and rich with no signs of being stewed. Balanced with beautiful food-friendly acids. Top pick.
Mara Winery, Sonoma
2006 Reserve, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley - another new discovery for me this year and I heard through the grapevine at the show that this was showing beautifully last year as well I missed it. Never again. Just killer. Ripe but moderate alcohol levels too. Top pick.
Miraflores Winery, Sierra Foothills
2006 Estate, El Dorado - My favorite from the Foothills with good blackberry fruit. Pretty high alcohol though, at 14.9%
Ottimino, Sonoma
2005 Rancho Bello Vineyard, Russian River Valley - delicious expression of Green Valley AVA. Great spice.
Rosenblum Cellars, Alameda
2006 Lyons Vineyard, Napa Valley - a light-bodied wine but just explosive on the nose.
2006 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley - pretty and balanced
2007 Harris Kratka, Alexander Valley - my favorite of the three. Big without being over-extracted. Yum
Storybook Mountain Vineyards, Napa
2007 Mayacamas Range Estate Wine, Napa Valley - just delicous. Super rich and spicy. Great expression of Zin fruit. Classic.
Tin Barn Vineyards, Sonoma
2005 Glisson Vineyard, Russian River Valley - settled very nicely since last year. Has a slight but not-unpleasant herbal quality
2007 Dalraddy Vineyard, Napa Valley Chiles Valley - Earthy wonder. My favorite of the three poured. Look for this soon upon release. It'll go soon.
Tofanelli Family Vineyard, Calistoga, Napa Valley
2006 Estate, Napa Valley - had an amazing charred, dark, black pie fruit aroma. Very good.
2007 Estate, Napa Valley - This has a bit of Petite Syrah in there to punch up the tannins and it works very well. Quite a bit different than the usual Tofanelli, with more aromatics and less big body.
Turley Wine Cellars, Napa
2006 Hayne Vineyard - Another massive expression of Hayne. Lots earth and smoke, firm tannins but balances out the fruit perfectly. Ready to go.