Since the demise of the pyramid-scheming Premier Cru, there have been plenty of cautionary tales about buying wine "pre-arrival". I have friends who lost a great deal of their money, drawn in by the siren's song of a great wine deal, only to be swindled in the end. Most of my readers know that I'm not a wine investor, but rather a collector of wines to drink, preferably with something I cook for my family and friends. But all wine deal-hunting is an investment of sorts, with risks and benefits --the risk of cork taint, the risk of premature oxidation or just a lousy, overpriced bottle. But oh the benefits! There is huge satisfaction opening something amazing that you know you got at a great price.
And then there the pre-arrival. I don't have a lot invested in pre-arrival wines, but I have been steadily buying wines as Futures (wines purchased directly from the winemaker after tasting in the barrel, at a significant discount) and Pre-Arrival for more than 20 years and have had great luck. This is probably due to being more careful, or better prepared about the wines I buy as pre-arrival --and like any good investment, never getting uncomfortably too far out on margin.
I was rewarded exponentially when I opened the 1997 Scherrer OMV for my friend's 60th birthday celebration this weekend. I wanted to open only 97s and 07s to get a feeling for his 40th and 50th years. The wine is clearly mature, and I would say at it's peak now with a couple more years of life in it. The ripe fruit has now been edged gently aside by mature zin's acidic backbone and has hit a lovely harmonic note. It still has a pinch of that Alexander Valley green flavor, but it's down in the noise being made by the lovely black fruits and terrific aromas. Highly recommended if you can ever find a bottle!
So I'm not telling you to run out and risk your hard earned money on sketchy pre-arrival wines, but again, I've been lucky. I continue to buy a good percentage of my wine from Garagiste and, while I don't get over-extended, I have rarely been disappointed by any of the wines, nor have I ever had any issue with not receiving something I paid for. For sure, I'm telling you that finding a winemaker like Fred Scherrer, whose wines you love, is worth supporting with futures. If you're lucky, waiting for the future may pay off in earnest at table.
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